PATHFINDER MAGAZINE, APRIL 2005.

 By Mark Jackson

 There are almost as many restaurants as tailors in Hoi An, so why bother to take a boat along the Thu Bon river to the Red Bridge when there is an eatery serving White Rose and Won Tons next to your hotel? The answer as is so often the case lies in the detail.

 First there is the boat trip itself (departs Hoi An at 12:00 and 13:30, a relaxing glide along the river settling you into the perfect frame of mind to enjoy your lunch. Then there is the architecture. If you want to eat in the beautiful traditional Hoi An houses then you should stay in town and try Brothers or Tam Tam? However, for me The Red Bridge is one of the finest examples of contemporary architecture in Vietnam , similar to the FCC in Siem Reap, with handmade furniture and a roof specially made in Hue . Its location is delightful, right on the bank of the river and as for the music, there is no Celine Dion, or modern Vietnamese pop music here, but Joss Stone, Kate Melua and Nick Drake.

           Nick and Hai who run Hai ‘ s Scout café in the centre of Hoi An opened this restaurant last January. The two met seven years ago when Nick was a tour guide and they’ve keep in touch ever since. Hai’s cookery classes have set the trend for others to copy in traditional Vietnamese manner. And he has retreated the formula here, to cook before you eat.

           I was treated to some delights from their new menu, Banh xeo (prawns, rice paper and herbs) in a peanut and chilli dip; fresh rice paper with seafood, which was deliciously soft; chicken kebabs; marinated beef grilled at the table in lemon grass, oil, shallots and sugar and then wrapped in mustard leaf before being dipped into the chilli, sea salt and wasabi dip – I hope that your mouths are watering now; and sliced aubergine in clay pot, which for once retained the texture of the vegetable. The last two were my favourites, but all the food was excellent.  

Open from 9:00 to 17:00 and on weekend evenings, or by request, this is a good place to avoid Hoi An’ s incessant shopping and to chill by the river with a La Rue Export, excellent food and ambience.

Main cost from 40 – 55,00VND