The historic coastal riverside town of Hoi An has been known to travellers since at least the middle of the last millenium, when it was a major port of call for merchants from Japan, China and even Arabia. These traders made use of the port's facilities and built a formidable town, until its importance waned as the Hoi An river silted up and international focus shifted to the coastal port of Danang .

Hoi An is now enjoying something of a renaissance as tourists flock to the once peaceful town. The ancient streets and temples have withstood this modern onslaught remarkably well, and Hoi An remains a "must see" on any tour of Vietnam . The streets themselves - narrow and faced with formidable frontages of ancient "shop-houses" - together with the town's remarkable and eclectic architectural styles, evoke a feeling of times gone by, and it isn't difficult to imagine the town of three- or four hundred years ago, bustling with trade and enjoying its economic and cultural heyday.

These days, the trade is almost entirely tourism-related, although the town retains its traditional market, and other glimpses of Vietnamese life are visible at almost every turn. The influx of tourists has translated into a good range of decent accommodation to suit most tastes and budgets, from simple guesthouses to fully-fledged four-star resorts on the banks of the river or on the beach itself (located a short distance from town). Likewise, dining in this caostal town is a pleasure, with some of the best seafood in Vietnam offered at very reasonable prices. Nightlife is simple and fairly understated, usually consisting of a promenade along the riverfront, a drink or two and a meal, then perhaps a nightcap - no place for ravers here.

Day trips can be taken from Hoi An to nearby My Son with its Cham ruins, and to Danang's China Beach and Marble Mountains (or even to the city itself - many travellers prefer to stay in Hoi An rather than the neighbouring, rather grim and faceless city).